Circular Sock Machine FAQ

No-wrap heels video

2009-04-27T15:07:00.003-05:00

I'm sharing a short video I made for the folks on Ravelry, showing how I do my heels with the "no wrap" method. This is just one of many ways to make heels, I find it the fastest and easiest, and it avoids any holes left at the heel. I don't wrap the extra stitch when I do toes, but some people do.

International CSM Directory

2009-04-22T15:13:00.002-05:00

Juana has compiled over the years an extensive directory of the people who have CSM machines and what types. It's handy to try to find other CSM'ers out there who may be generous with their time and help you if you're a beginner. You can also use it as a beginning to try to coordinate your own crank-in if there isn't one close to you.

Go here and fill out her form.

Cylinder Diagrams

2009-04-16T17:08:00.005-05:00

In both the Auto Knitter handbook and the LeGare handbook, you will see a strange circular drawing. There's a lot of information on these little buggers.

Here's the one found in the AK book:
Here's the LeGare figure:
There are two differences in the sketches.

The LeGare shows to pull more needles out of work for the toes.
The LeGare shows to work the toe on the back of the cylinder. The only problem I see with doing that is that you get your seam on the bottom of the foot rather than on the top.

If you ever get an unmarked cylinder, you can use these as a guide to where you will put your marks.

The other nice thing about these diagrams is that they show you where the sweet spot is located to hang your heel weights. Look inside the circle near the bottom. You will see a small "a" and "b". They're shown to be placed between needles the second and third needles on either side of the heel/toe. For what it's worth, I like to put another heel weight between these two points.

Dropped Stitches: Part 1 - Short Runs

2009-04-14T14:28:00.003-05:00

The first installment of what I plan on making a 5 part series on dropped stitches:

Part 1 - Short Runs (this post)
Part 2 - Long Runs
Part 3 - Dropped rib stitches
Part 4 - Dropped stitches while knitting heels/toes
Part 5 - Multiple Dropped stitches

This post is Part 1, and covers short runs from a single dropped stitch (ideally, what you get when you catch them quickly). I apologize in advance for my choice of yarn - I was looking for something easy to see that wasn't too bright for the camera, and what I found in my stash was this blue cotton slub (it's labeled as 3.5/1 weight, which is "about" fingering weight.. maybe a little lighter since it's cotton). Not the ideal CSM yarn by any means, so if it doesn't look like anything you're using, that's why.

Short Runs

A sample of what kind of drop I'm referring to - in plain knitting, a single stitch is dropped, and the run created is at most 4 or 5 rows long (sample shown is 4 rows).

Stopping the Run

First, before doing anything else, REMOVE the weights on your machine - this helps keep the run from extending further. Then, using a spare needle, run the needle under the yarn from the top of the cylinder, and hook into the stitch a row or two below the run (in this photo, I've hooked the stitch 2 rows below). This stops the run, and unlike trying to catch the stitch peeking out at at the end of the run, usually won't cause the run to unravel further. Using your fingers or a pick, gently pull out the stitch or two above where you've caught your needle so you can begin latching the stitches back up.

Re-Knitting the Dropped Stitches

You may want to hang your weights back on for this portion, as it helps to have a little tension on your work (you could pull down with your hand, but I find I often need that hand to help manipulate the latch on the needle). To form a stitch, you push the needle through the loop until the loop clears the latch, then make sure the needle latch closes over the strand of yarn from the row above. Pull that strand through to create a new stitch. Continue until you've latched up all the dropped rows. In the sample image I've latched up one row, and I am about to pull the yarn through from the next row.

Hooking Work Back on Needle

Once you've latched up all the dropped rows, simply pull the last loop over the needle it was dropped from. Before doing this though, you may want to inspect the needle for any problems (such as burrs or a bend latch) that may have caused the dropped stitch, and replace the needle if necessary.

How To: Remember Cylinder Tension

2009-04-14T10:06:00.004-05:00

This came from the sockknittingmachinefriends yahoo group.

To remember how to adjust your cylinder tension:

* higher-tighter, lower-looser *

Books: Knock Your Socks Off of Your Circular Sock Machine

2009-04-13T18:33:00.004-05:00

Christine Smith wrote a book and has self published. It's available here. The first 15 pages are available for a free preview.

Here's a quick screenshot of her table of contents.

Troubleshooting: Needle's won't grab yarn to knit

2009-04-08T10:22:00.005-05:00

On Ravelry, someone posted this photo of their machine and asked why it was doing what it's doing:
So, lets try to trouble shoot this.

There's knitting on the machine, so the machine is knitting.

Whenever this happens to me, there's one of two things wrong:

The tension is too tight - adjust the tension screw down to loosen up the knitting. By loosening the tension, the weights should bring the loops down to where they're evenly distributed.
The weight has hit the ground or is hung up somewhere - the fabric behind is not being pulled down uniformly.

So - check you weights and loosen your tension.

Troubleshooting: Needles aren't engaging when doing short rows.

2009-03-11T15:27:00.006-05:00

Kathy posted a question to the sockknittingmachines group and I thought it'd be easier to show her here what she's doing wrong.

She's having difficulty doing the heels/toes as her needles won't engage after she's pulled the needles out of work and changes direction to do short rows.

She thoughtfully provided photos.

First photo shows where she stops and changes direction.
First of all, Kathy needed to keep cranking until all her needles that are in work are all level. What she's doing here is not allowing the second cam to drop down.

Remember, this is the path the needle takes while making a loop:

What's happening is Kathy isn't cranking far enough for the needles to clear cam D6 where it's passing under it. Her first couple of needles are still in the V cam. In the next photo, she's changed direction and the needles aren't being lifted. The cam is floating along the tops of the needles.

If you look at the inside of her machine, you can even see where the needles travel. Look at the clean marks.

Hope that clears it up, Kathy.

Silicone Caulking

2009-03-09T08:54:00.003-05:00

A recent post on one of the Yahoo groups was too good to not share.

If you have an older CSM buckle that is not holding your socks well, dab some silicone caulking on the area where the buckle is in contact with the sock. Should be holding socks back in no time.

The other thing to do is to use it for non-slip socks. While applying the caulk, make sure you get the caulk down into the stitches so little fingers can't peel it off. Just make sure you don't get the toes or heels if these socks are supposed to be able to slip into shoes easily.

Supposed to be good for felted slippers, too.

2009 CSMSA Convention

2009-02-03T13:49:00.001-06:00

I found the home page for the upcoming convention. Go check it out here.

FWIW, it's June 8th - 11th, 2009

Did you know?

2009-01-14T14:29:00.000-06:00

LeGare supplied several sizes of V-cams. Your machine's abilities will be affected by the V-cam it has.

Cone Sock Yarn Sources

2009-01-06T10:47:00.004-06:00

From eirual :

Wool2Dye4 - sells really nice cones of sock yarn that are ready to be dyed. Also, skeins of pre-dyed sock yarn.

Webs - also sells cones of sock yarn, they are not nearly as nice and squishy as Wool2Dye4’s but - they are less expensive. $15 a lb plus shipping (if you order 4 lbs it’s $12 a lb). I find that the color is more cream, the spin is a bit loose.

Bartlett Yarns - lovely cones of sport weight yarn. I find that you really want to use a bit of woolly nylon with this to give the sock a little body. Very easy to knit, I use it to make socks on my 72 needle cylinder with no problems.

Sylvia’s Threads - Best price I have found for woolly nylon.

From sarahspins:

Lion Brand - 100% wool

I should add that one of my current favorite CSM yarns is Treadsoft from Henry’s Attic. The easiest way to buy it retail is likely from Catnip Yarns (just email them - very nice company and super easy to work with). Treadsoft is a smooth 2-ply superwash with a tight twist, it’s not only easy to knit with (it’s a 2/8 yarn, unlike most of the 2-ply sock yarns that are 2/6 and IMO a little on the heavy side), but it wears very well too.

If you have any more sources, please contact me so I can add it to this list.

CSM Teachers

2009-01-03T11:20:00.001-06:00

Northeastern Maryland, and have
a variety of machines.
wollon@comcast.net
410 734-7980
Gregory Dodge Wollon
Havre de Grace, Maryland

Donna Peters
http://www.countryrain.com/class.htm

Maureen Newell
creatne2@yahoo.com,
11 High Street Fairfield, Maine 04937
207-453-7708

Roxana Baechle
Coleman, Michigan
Baechler@mindnet.org
989-205-7476 and 989-465-1526.

Eric Wolff
Pinckney, MI USA
fine knitted items of all sorts
sock machine sales, maintenance & repairs
ewolff1516@yahoo.com

Barbara Clorite-Ventura
eastern MA
bclorite@verizon.net

Judy Scheuneman
Knitewe1@intouchmi.com
Specializes in new knitters/ribbers
carries small parts for sale
Wisconsin and Michigan areas

Maureen Patterson
Roseburg, Oregon
mpat777@charter.net

Stephanie DeVoe
Plum Cottage Crafts
Frederick, MD
sdevoe@comcast.net
www.plumcottage-crafts.com

Katy Abbas
New Hampton, Iowa (NE) 1945 Kenwood Ave. Variety of CSM's
Sales, repair, restoration, parts, new parts machined and
lessons katy@thelegacyfarm.com 641 394 3627

Laura Schickli
http://handwerkstextiles.com
teach 3 classes as well as give private instruction based on the customers needs. classes are:
Basic CSM set up and Machine Adjsutment, Knit a sock, Fancy Sock Tops
hand dyed sock yarns, and needles laura@handwerkstextiles.com San Francisco Bay Area, CA. BayAreaCSMers group

Susan Forsyth
http://www.woolcombs.com/
+1 (604) 288-9811
susanf@rocketmail.com
Located in Mission, British Columbia, Canada
classes in all levels. Willing to travel
new knitters welcome.
CSM Repairs and maintenance.
classes also in spinning, felting, dyeing.
wide variety of small parts: - lifters, picks, crescents(wood and
metal), heel hooks, long handled stitch catchers.

Melanie Wilson
Leicestershire UK
Willing to help get people going on sock machines. Also Dyeing instruction.
0116 2604442 or socks@dragonflight.co.uk

Maker Faire

2008-12-21T20:36:00.002-06:00

This was just posted to the Make: Magazine website earlier this week.

It's a video of my demonstration of my machine.

Antique Sock Knitting Machines - CRAFT Video Podcast from make magazine on Vimeo.

How to make a cup cosy on your CSM

2008-11-27T09:46:00.002-06:00

I Frogged It has a great tutorial on how to make these quick gifts!

Sizing yarn

2008-11-18T12:10:00.004-06:00

Typically CSM'ers will use yarn classified as sock yarn to knit socks with but occasionally you will hear on the Yahoo! group about knitting socks with some "strange number" yarn.

The numbers actually mean something. Crazy Fiber Lady posted a comment to this blog to a great site that explains just how those numbers are calculated and what they mean. (Thanks!)

Laura, with Handwerks, posted this great link to visually show you the difference between yarn weights. It's very handy!

Needle sizes & When to use large hook needles.

2008-11-15T00:19:00.003-06:00

Typically, there are two different types of needles. Cylinder needles and ribber needles.

The cylinder needles are the long shank needles. This is a photo of a 12 gauge cylinder needle typically used in Auto Knitters, PT Legare's, most Creelman Brother's, Master Machines & Verdun's:

Cylinder needles essentially makes knit stitches.

The shorter needles are ribber needles and are used in a ribber dial. Ribber needles purl. Here's a photo of a 12 gauge ribber needle:
Pat Fly with Angora Valley is currently the resource most CSM'ers use.

Pat also sells needles called Large Hook needles. These needles are exactly that, larger hooks.

Why use a Large Hook needle? When you have a machine that can handle thicker yarns (I've heard some LeGare 400's can knit worsted) or if you find that your yarns keep splitting.

I personally have an Auto Knitter and my machine, while it can knit with the large hook needles, it's certainly not happy (i.e., it feels very different when I crank and tends to drop stitches more often).

On the other hand, I've heard from people who one LeGare's who LOVE the large hook needles.

Another CSM'er likes to use large hook cylinder needles and regular sized ribber needles.

So really, it's a matter of what you're machine is happiest with.

Bonnie Smola's CD

2008-11-08T10:57:00.001-06:00

CSM Instructional CD

From Yellow River Station website:

This CD contains information about Circular Sock Machines. How to clean them, how to set them up, thread them, adjust them for knitting including adjusting tension for yarn and conditions, adjusting timeing, knitting waste yarn, placing the ribber and ribber adjustments are all shown in the first section of the CD.

The second section of the CD shows how to make sock tops of different styles: ribbed, hemmed, rolled, picot, and mock ribber tops are all explained and illustrated. Different types of heels and how to make them are shown. Knitting toes both wide and narrow, fashion or wedge and toe closing using Kitcheners or latching completes this section.

Fancy stitches including open work, polka dots and argyles fill the third section of the CD.

Information about various machines and machine pictures provide a short history of the Circular Sock Machine for the fourth and final section of the CD.

Click here for more info.

Roxana Baechle's Videos

2008-11-08T10:55:00.001-06:00

Roxana has made several videos that are true standards within CSM circles. Here's the run down of what she has available. Ordering information is located at the bottom of this post.

Initial set--2 tapes, 2 hours each, $45 plus $6 shipping (includes written patterns)--

Contents: checking out parts, cleaning, sorting and testing needles, substituting parts, assembling, threading, using the set-up basket, making a knitted set-up/bonnet, re-hung selvedge on 54 slot cylinder, selvedge on other cylinders, sock with plain foot, sock with ribbed arch, kitchener stitch done from needles. Shows Gearhart, LeGare and Auto Knitter threadings. (Can be used with any brand of machine with exception of the ribbed arch sock section which cannot be done as described using a Gearhart due to absence of drive pin to take ribber out of work.)

Tape #3--over 1 1/2 hours, $25 plus $6 shipping (includes written patterns)--

Contents: mock ribbed sock, kitchener stitch variation when mock ribbing is used, hem-tops, pouches, tote-sampler-stool, embellishments/pockets/elbow patches, changing colors, reversible/double-layered sock; all items can be completed without using the ribber attachment. (Can be used with any brand of machine and any number of slots in the cylinder. Demonstrations on Gearhart, LeGare, Auto Knitter.)

Tape #4--approx 1 1/2 hours, $26 plus $6 shipping (includes written patterns)

Contents: mittens, gloves, special neck warmer; includes section on open fingers and inserting eyelet lace. All knitting is done on machine; finishing requires sewing one side of each finger and thumb. (Can be used with any brand of machine. Demonstration on 60 slot Auto Knitter.)

Tape #5--approx 1 1/4 hours, $21 plus $6 shipping (includes written patterns)

Contents: uses large-eye needles; mock rib sock with selvedge top, fast bootie for kids, sewing up toes from scrap yarn. (Can be used with any machine and regular needles using regular yarns. This video features use of four-ply worsted weight acrylic and heavy wool yarns. Demonstration on 60 slot auto knitter.)

Tape #6--approx 2 hours, $26 plus $6 shipping (includes written patterns)

Contents: knitting diamond patterns in contrasting colors, framing a diamond, putting the contrasting color across diamonds in argyle, finishing hints. (Demonstration on 60 slot auto knitter. Need to adapt pattern slightly for using other cylinders.)

Tape #7--about 1.5 hrs, $21 plus $6 shipping (includes written patterns)

Contents: knitting a sock in ten minutes by using mock ribbing technique and straight-up leg; rehung selvege (no bulky hem-top), exaggerating selvege row, heels/toes using end of row back to work, adding stripes and contrasting heels/toes, replacing needles for foot section. (Demonstration on 60 slot Auto Knitter; can use any working machine; no ribber or special tools needed.) Has a section featuring slotted yarn carrier; wool suggested for this pattern, but experimentation may prove it suitable in synthetics. Hints for speeding up the color changes are helpful in other patterns too.

Tapes will be sent using USPS priority mail packaging and services.

May be ordered via snailmail with check or money order to:
Roxana Baechle
3360 W. Saginaw Rd.
Coleman, MI 48618

Paypal payments are most welcome using baechler@mindnet.org address and "non-auction goods."

Sock Knitting Machine 101 Book One

2008-11-08T10:52:00.001-06:00

Donna Peters has a new book out that is for brand new CSM owners.

How to knit a custom foot

2008-11-07T01:32:00.004-06:00

You will need a some information regarding the row gauge and foot size before you start.

Look at the bottom of a sock. You will see three different areas:

Heel
Foot
Toe

A rule of thumb is that the heel and toe measures 2" each. The length can vary according to which cylinder you use, but we're talking general stuff for now.

To figure out how to knit the foot, initially you have to determine the total foot length.

Let's size a Men's 9. The length of a typical size 9 is 10.55 inches long.

So, to determine how long the foot area is, you do the following:

Shoe size length - Heel - Toe = Foot
10.55" - 2" - 2" = 6.55"

Next you have to use the row gauge of the yarn.

Let's say that the ball band says the yarn is 12 rows per inch.

So to determine how many times you crank, it's a simple multiplication:

Foot * Row Gauge = # of cranks for foot.
6.55-inch * 12 rows/inch = 78.6 rows => round up to 79 cranks

When you make your sock, work the heel, then crank 79 times, work the toe.

That's it.

Check your actual gauge after you knit the sock. If it doesn't match the ball band gauge, then can always frog the sock and re-calculate the foot length.

As you get used to your machine and the types of yarns you knit with you will be able to custom make socks in no time.

Yarn Weight Chart

2008-11-06T16:22:00.004-06:00

The Craft Yarn Council of America has a great chart showing the different yarn weight standards. This is important to help you determine if the ball of yarn you have can be knitted on your CSM.

My AK doesn't like anything thicker than a Fine (2)
My row gages have run anywhere between 7 rows per inch to 12 rows per inch. It depends on the thickness of the yarn and the tension you set on your machine.

Row Gauge

2008-11-06T14:20:00.008-06:00

Row gauge is and important element that helps you size your socks.

First off, you'll need to know row gauge.

I initially look at the yarn ball band to get an idea of what to expect. Most balls will have the following grid:
See the number that has an "R" behind it located on the right side of the square? It's the row gauge number. The left designates that it's a 4" high square.

So to determine row gauge here, simply divide 22 by 4 = 5.5 rows per inch.

But the above square is for a worsted weight yarn. A CSM typically uses yarns that are thinner. It just depends on the machine you have. I have heard of some Legare 400 machines being able to knit worsted weight yarn. My AK really doesn't like anything larger than a Sport weight.

I'll do another post talking about yarn weights.

Question about yarn mast height

2008-11-05T09:46:00.006-06:00

I got an email from Michelle and she asks:

. . .the latest post . . . mentioned that the yarn mast was too high. I watched again to see where the yarn mast was, and I never saw the mast. Mine is all the way up on both machines. How did you all know that it was too high, and where is it supposed to be???

I misspoke in that previous post (and have since corrected it). I had typed yarn mast when I meant yarn carrier. To be clear, the Yarn Stand is Item K on the AK machine sketch. I adjusted the Yarn Carrier (Item E).

I just played with the location of the yarn carrier until the machine seemed to be cranking better. A good reference as to proper yarn carrier height is to watch Jacquie's video.

Add yourself to the sock machine map

2008-11-03T14:57:00.007-06:00

Where to put the markings on your cylinder

2008-11-03T14:43:00.001-06:00

Country Rain has a great chart showing how many needles should be marked for the half way mark and the number of slots for the heel/toe.

Shoe Size to Sock Size Chart

2008-11-03T14:40:00.002-06:00

Catherine Goodwin put together a chart showing how long each foot is in inches which helps when making custom sized socks.

History of the CSM

2008-11-03T14:35:00.003-06:00

Dr. Richard Candee has written the definitive history of the hand-cranked sock machine.

Get your copy of the CD-Rom from Angora Valley

Jenny Deter CSM Patterns

2008-11-03T14:05:00.004-06:00

Jenny Deters (above with some fair-isle socks she knitted on her CSM) has written a couple of pattern books that are available for purchase.

Jenny's first book: Unique Fancy Sock Patterns contains 12 patterns. No ribber used unless you want a ribbed cuff instead of a hung hem. Designs in the socks are made by transferring stitches, so you will need a tool with a good hook. All patterns have written directions & graphs for the 54, 60 & 72 needle cylinders, plus all patterns are rated according to difficulty.
Cost $17.00 which includes sh/h
Jenny's second book: Socks & More contains 16 patterns all in color. This book has a wide variety of patterns of garments, several different socks including simplified sole mates, fingerless gloves, beadwork, felted slippers, etc. I think you'll find some very interesting & unique patterns. Cost $33.95 which includes sh/h.

Add $1.30 for paypal

My paypal address is: detersj@sbcglobal.net

3. Individual patterns:

Celtic Knot Scarf Pattern knit flat fabric with directions for 2 lengths of tails. This is truly a nice looking scarf with I-cording woven to make the knot.
Cost $7.00 which includes sh/h

Double & Single Eyelet Rib Socks for the 54, 60, 72 & 80 needle cylinders. The 54 would require the 27 ribber. Socks can be made with repatterning yarn or solid colors.
Cost $7.00 which includes sh/h

Set-up bonnets for the 60 & 72 needle cylinders with loops at both ends in different colors. These bonnets should last for years as they are made from cotton. I am still using my original bonnet.
Cost $7.00 which includes sh/h

Knowing that many of you don't like paying all the shipping costs & for those who for some reason just can't get my second book "Socks & More", I can email the felted slipper pattern to you. The only thing it will lack is a drawing of attaching the two layers together, but it is described in the text. I will send the photo as an attachment. Cost $5.00 for the emailed pattern

If combining items, sh/h costs will be lower.

How to Inspect your machine upon arrival

2008-11-03T14:01:00.001-06:00

If you bought an antique sock machine, Country Rain has a great tutorial on what to expect when your shipment arrives.

NZAK Manual play list

2008-11-03T10:24:00.003-06:00

I like the You Tube play list format to view the contents of each chapter for the NZAK Manual.

Go here to see it.

How to make your own set up bonnet

2008-11-03T10:20:00.002-06:00

Country Rain shows how to make your own set up bonnet.

Once you have a bonnet made, you can go here to see how to use it.

How to clean your CSM

2008-11-03T10:19:00.002-06:00

Yellow Station has a great PDF showing how to clean your CSM.

Follow-up to open ribber timing question:

2008-11-03T09:35:00.003-06:00

The feedback I'm getting from various CSM'ers to my video open question is:

My yarn carrier is too high. As far as ribber timing goes, as long as the yarn catches in the hook while the ribber needles is moving backwards, it's timed right.
My stool is too wobbly.
I am turning the crank too fast - slow down to ensure I don't drop stitches.
I need to loosen the tension on my ribber needles. Ideally you want the ribber and the cylinder needles to form the same size stitches. In this video, it looks like the ribber tension is tighter than the cylinder tension.

Thanks to those who took the time to watch and comment. Hopefully this will help others out, too.

NZAK Manual chapters 17-18 - Toe & Cast off

2008-11-02T08:44:00.008-06:00

Shows how to make the toe (chapter 17) and cast off your work (chapter 18 - 3:46)

NZAK Manual chapter 16 - Heel

2008-11-02T08:44:00.006-06:00

How to knit a heel

NZAK Manual chapter 15 - Start top of leg

2008-11-02T08:43:00.003-06:00

Starting the leg of the sock.

NZAK Manual chapters 13-14 - Adjustments

2008-11-02T08:42:00.008-06:00

Chapter 13 shows how to adjust your yarn carrier

Chapter 14 shows how to adjust the tension on the ribber (1:18 in) Also shows how to set up the machine with ribber needles and scrap yarn.

NZAK Manual chapters 11-12 - Casting on & Setting up the Ribber

2008-11-02T08:42:00.007-06:00

Start here to learn to knit a sock

NZAK Manual chapter 10

2008-11-02T08:42:00.001-06:00

NZAK Manual chapters 8-9

2008-11-02T08:41:00.003-06:00

NZAK Manual chapters 4-7

2008-11-02T08:41:00.001-06:00

NZAK Manual chapters 1-3

2008-11-02T08:40:00.001-06:00

Jacquie was very generous in allowing the NZAK instructional DVD to be uploaded to You Tube. Thanks, Jacquie!

Open Question about CSM ribber timing

2008-11-02T01:22:00.002-05:00

I have been having trouble with my ribber needles shearing off at the latches. This is an open video question for the more experienced CSM'ers out there about timing. Everyone assumes that I understand what proper timing is. I do know how to adjust my timing, but I don't know if I have proper timing on my ribber currently. Help!

How to start work on a CSM with a set up bonnet

2008-11-02T01:19:00.001-05:00

Video shows how to use a set up bonnet to start work on the CSM. Note: I was setting up to start doing ribbing, that's why I had every other needle removed. If you are doing a hung hem sock, you will need to put a loop on every other needle.

Note: At the end of the video I mention that is how to use a set up basket - I misspoke. It's how to use a set up bonnet

Adjusting the cylinder tension on a CSM

2008-11-02T01:14:00.000-05:00

A quick explanation of how to adjust your tension dial and what it does to change your knitting tension. This was done on my AK.

Kitchener Stitch

2008-11-01T16:09:00.001-05:00

Great video on how to close your toes. This shows how to do it from the stockinette side of the sock.

How to use your bobbin winder

2008-11-01T15:55:00.002-05:00

This is a helpful video that shows you how to properly use your bobbin winder that comes with antique sock machines and shows you how to adapt it for modern cardboard cones.

How to knit an I-chord

2008-11-01T15:41:00.002-05:00

purlgurl wrote up a great visual tutorial on how to knit an I-chord on your machine.

Manuals

2008-11-01T11:08:00.006-05:00

Known CSM Restorers

2008-11-01T11:01:00.003-05:00

Here's a list of known CSM Restorers:

Angora Valley
Country Rain
The Legacy Farm (These guys also refurbish)
Old Tyme Stockings
Plum Cottage Crafts

Buying a CSM

2008-11-01T10:02:00.002-05:00

Finding the right machine for you really depends upon what your expectations are. The learning curve is somewhat high with regards to making socks on your machine. I have heard of some people being able to knit a sock right out of the box, but that is rare.

So, do you want to be able to get knitting quickly and don't want to deal with tinkering with your machine to make it work? Is tinkering something you enjoy? You should ask yourself those questions prior to buying a machine.

There are a couple of ways to buy a CSM.

Buy a brand new NZAK from Jacquie Grant in New Zealand.
Buy one from a restorer.
Buy one from someone who is getting rid of theirs
Buy one from eBay.

Buying from Jacquie Grant will get you up and running as quickly as possible. Her machines are newly manufactured and are made with aluminum - which make the machines relatively lighter than their antique counterparts. The cost of the machines really depends on the strength of the US dollar to the NZ dollar. Generally, I've seen them sold anywhere between $1,300 to $2,100 loaded (stand, two cylinders, two dials, etc. . .)

You can also buy one from a reputable restorer. This is also a quick way to get up and running and you have the peace of mind that there's nothing wrong with your machine, it's just you! :) I'll post a separate post for known restorers so I can keep the list recent. The only problem with buying from a restorer is that they're product is limited to the machines they can find. Sometimes they'll be flush with machines, other times they'll be in the process of restoring one. The cost for a restored machine runs approximately from $1,200 to $1,800.

Current CSM owners may also be selling their machines for various reasons. They have too many, they aren't using it anymore, etc. Whatever the reason, this can be a really good deal. You know they work. The only problem is trying to find someone who is selling one. The yahoo group sockmachineswapshop is probably going to be your best resource for this type of machine. Ravelry also has a csm sales and swaps forum.

Finally, eBay. Country Rain has the best rundown of what to look for when buying a machine from an eBay auction. For non-tinkerers, make sure you see knitting on the machine and various examples of what has been knitted on the machine. For the tinkerers out there, you can probably find one and fix it as you go. I did this and it took me a long time before I actually knitted anything on my machine. I also got very frustrated with it, too. You just don't know the shape of the machine you are going to get when you buy from eBay, but there are some good restorers who sell there, too.

Hopefully this sums up this question. If you see any errors or have more info to impart, please feel free to contact me!

Intro

2008-11-01T09:59:00.000-05:00

I'm finding that there's a lot to learn about using circular sock machines. I'm also very much a visual learner.

This blog is my attempt to keep track of how to use my antique circular sock machine. I hope this can help someone else out.